USA 2017

Coney Island – Greenwich Village – Katz´s Delicatessen

Who would have thought it, but on day 4 the sun is shining again and it's pleasantly warm. So first we have breakfast somewhere on the way to the subway, because we'll be sitting on the train for almost an hour to get to Coney Island. The route takes us through Brooklyn on an elevated railway line, so we can look down on the roofs of the houses and industrial buildings, which are often covered in graffiti.

Coney Island

We arrive around half past ten and quickly realize that there's nothing going on here. Well, I had the same impression during my last visit in 2008. But since the weather is really great, we just stroll along the boardwalk and enjoy the peace and quiet and the sea.

At the end of the amusement park is an old building with the inscription “Amphitheater,” where I want to take a look to see if it's really old or just made to look old. So I look through the window from the outside like a little boy, with my hands on either side of my head to see better. Shortly thereafter, I feel like I've been caught. There is a restaurant in the building and a man signals to us to come in.

What follows is a 45-minute tour including the history of the building and the area, as he is the operator/owner of the restaurant. So the building is really old and they have restored it, and the restaurant has been open since May 2017. By the way, it's called "Kitchen 21".

At the end, I ask why there are so few people there and am told that it only really gets busy at lunchtime. So we have another good coffee and enjoy the nice outing and the hospitality.

We stroll back across the beach towards the Wonder Wheel and dip our feet briefly into the very cool water.

The park has now opened, and the boardwalk is gradually filling up with people. I take the opportunity to ride the Wonder Wheel. It was closed last time. Naturally, I sit in a moving gondola. At first, it doesn't seem very spectacular, but when you consider that this Ferris wheel began operating in 1920... The first half of the ride is very leisurely, just like on a normal Ferris wheel, but then you reach the point where the entire gondola starts moving on the iron rails, and you feel like you're about to shoot out of the wheel. The whole thing is accompanied by squeaking and rumbling, and I can't shake the feeling that everything is only held together by the umpteenth coat of paint. By the second ride, you're prepared?!

But see for yourself...

As luck would have it, the movie “Wonder Wheel,” which is set in Coney Island, was released in theaters at almost the same time.

Around 1 p.m., the place is pleasantly crowded, and of course we have to grab a bite to eat at Nathan's Famous. All this in beautiful sunshine and sea air. Nathan's is a fast food chain that specializes in hot dogs and also organizes hot dog eating contests, among other things.

Slowly, it's time to head back towards Manhattan. On the way to the subway, we stop by the “Coney Art Walls.” Here, various walls with graffiti/paintings are on display.

Greenwich Village

It's now half past three and we've arrived in Greenwich Village. Yes, that's where the houses with the small stairways are. What's more, it really feels like a small community. Narrow streets, hardly any traffic, well-kept little front gardens and therefore no stress or noise. Here, Manhattan shows itself from a completely different side and the ladies are raving about it. So we wander around the neighborhood without a specific destination and simply enjoy the here and now.

Katz´s Delicatessen

Eventually, we end up back at our hotel. After a quick power nap, we start to feel a little hungry and decide to stop by Katz's Delicatessen. A small pastrami sandwich is always a good idea. Katz's is quite special. A large room with tables and chairs lined up, the walls plastered with pictures of famous visitors, and a long counter on one side. It's self-service, and you pay when you leave. The food you order is marked on a slip of paper, which you present when paying. Losing it costs a large flat fee.

A sandwich costs at least $18, but it's really delicious and more than enough. They are served like an assembly line. Crowds of people line up at seven counters and are served every three minutes. Nevertheless, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly.

Since this is our last evening in New York, we drive to Times Square again to immerse ourselves in the sea of lights without rain (as on the first day).